For several years, I’ve been transitioning my garden to deer-resistant perennials, most of which I’ve started indoors from seeds under grow lights during winter. This method has proven cost-effective and rewarding, yielding beautiful plants like agastache (anise hyssop) with minimal expense. Starting hardy perennials from seed not only saves money but also makes use of grow lights before vegetable planting season begins.
Why Choose Perennials?
Perennials offer enduring beauty, often returning year after year if well-cared for. My focus has been on species that are animal-resistant, pollinator-friendly, easy to grow, and ideally native. While some plants fail to thrive, others, like echinacea and black-eyed Susan, have become garden staples. As horticulturist Allan Armitage aptly puts it, “A perennial is a plant that will come back and grace the garden year after year, unless it’s dead.”
The Basics of Starting Perennials from Seed
Hardy perennials benefit from an early start indoors, as exposure to cool spring temperatures often triggers first-year blooms. Some species, such as milkweeds and rudbeckias, require cold stratification—a process of chilling seeds for about 60 days to break dormancy. This can be achieved by mixing seeds with damp sand in labeled plastic bags stored in the refrigerator or by winter sowing in containers like plastic bottles.
However, many perennial seeds will germinate at room temperature if fresh and of good quality. The key is maintaining consistent moisture, which can be challenging in dry winter air. Enclosing seed trays in loose plastic bags helps prevent them from drying out. If seeds haven’t germinated after three weeks, consider placing them outdoors in a protected area. Surprisingly, some seeds may sprout after exposure to natural weather conditions.
Nurturing Seedlings and Transplanting
Once perennial seedlings develop two or three true leaves, they grow rapidly. At this stage, transplant them into small containers where they can mature until they become rootbound. Gradually harden them off by moving them outdoors during mild weather and bringing them in during winter storms. Hardy seedlings tolerate light frosts but benefit from cloches for added protection against cold, wind, and curious animals.
To avoid losing all your plants to pests like chipmunks or mice, stagger your planting times. If the conditions are right, the seedlings will thrive as the soil warms in spring.
Exploring New Species
One of the joys of starting perennials from seed is the vast selection of species available. Native plants, in particular, are low-maintenance and highly attractive to pollinators. My wild verbena delighted insects for months, and deer largely avoided the wild monarda compared to a nearby cultivated variety.
Seeds also offer second chances. For example, a verbascum I planted didn’t thrive due to weather conditions, but I’ll try again with leftover seeds.
Cost-Effective Gardening
By growing perennials from seed, you can experiment with a variety of plants without the financial risk of purchasing expensive nursery specimens. Even if some species don’t work out, you haven’t wasted significant money. Instead, you can try something new and continue expanding your garden with fresh possibilities.
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